First Rhubarb

In my garden, the first rhubarb is growing. On Sunday, I picked the first ripe stalks.

Rhubarb means Spring and the end of our long, wet winter.  It’s simple to grow, simple to harvest.  Just wait for the stalks to extend from the moist soil, tall and red. Then a hand pushing it back and a quick twist.

I love it roasted. Simple fruit = simple preparation.  A little sugar (white, brown, maple syrup or honey), a little flavor (vanilla bean, citrus zest, cinnamon) roasted 325 degrees until just tender.

Gorgeous pink cubes, tart vegetable turned fruit.

Spring shared with sister and friend.

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Croissants

Croissants are one of those elusive pastries that, done well, are truly amazing.  And in your home kitchen, an amazing feat.

These beauties were made in my home kitchen. The keys to beautiful croissants are the in the dough and butter temperatures as they are folded and layered together and in the proofing before they are baked.

As with any yeasted bread or pastry, the crosscut tells it all – tender, flaky layers.

This might be why my Croissant and Brioche class has been so popular lately.

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Holiday Breads

After  a busy holiday, it’s time to recap a bit. Out of all of the wonderful treats I made this season (cookies, confections and things in between), I love my holiday breads best. They’re traditional which brings me back to my roots and helps me learn about friends’ traditions as well.

These bread share a few things in common.  They all are made ahead and then must sit for weeks or can be eaten weeks after they are made. They all contain similar types of fruit and nuts. And finally, they’ve all gotten a bit of a bad rap due to their longevity on the holiday table.

First, the German Stollen swathed in powdered sugar and full of almonds, dried fruits and rum. Nearly every European country has it’s holiday bread – this is Germany’s.

On to the English Fruitcake, a family tradition with a recipe from my grandmother. No dreaded candied fruits here. This fruitcake is rich with dates, raisins, dried papaya  and walnuts. Soaked in port, it sits in my mother’s cupboard for 4 weeks. We all wait for the unveiling.

Finally, these beautiful King’s Cakes made by my friend, Maria. A traditional bread in Portugal, King’s Cake is sold by the kilo there and sits on the table for the entire Christmas season, until King’s Day (also known as the Epiphany or the 12th day of Christmas). Maria makes these beauties every year. Each cake contains a trinket which gives the lucky finder the responsibility of being the maker/bringer of the King’s Cake the next year.

Happy Holidays!

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Holiday (Stollen) Biscotti

It’s the first week of December and I am well into my holiday baking. This can be a challenge because it’s also a popular time for classes.  I’ve been teaching regularly and this week I’ll teach five classes. I’ve been teaching my Brittles and Barks class for PCC. Five down, four to go. It’s race to the finish – or maybe more like a marathon. Either way, it’s exciting to see all of my students learning how to temper chocolate and cook sugar for brittles. They are finding these to be the perfect edible gifts.

So while I’m teaching, I still need to make time for my own baking. It’s the perfect time for me to treat friends and family to some of my specialties and a few new recipes too. This biscotti is in the “new” category.  I love biscotti and I have many winning recipes. But I wanted something new and different. This week on my kitchen counter were the makings of Stollen, a traditional German Christmas bread.  And those got me thinking that the same flavors would work perfectly in biscotti. So out of those ingredients (candied orange and lemon peel, almonds, dark rum and winter spices) and with the addition of crystallized ginger, I created a biscotti reminiscent of German Stollen.

This is a slightly moist biscotti – no dunking needed. But it wouldn’t hurt to experiment with dunking it in a little hot spiced wine, glögg or Vin Santo. Enjoy!

Candied Citrus, Ginger and Almond Biscotti

2 ¾ cups pastry flour or all-purpose flour
1 ¼ cup granulated sugar
2 ½ teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon kosher salt
Pinch each of ground ginger, clove and cinnamon
4 ounces almond paste, room temperature
½ cup unsalted butter, room temperature
2 eggs, room temperature
3 tablespoons dark rum
1 ½ c almonds (whole roughly chopped, sliced or slivered or a combination)
6-8 oz candied orange, candied lemon, and crystallized ginger

In a stand mixer mixing bowl, combine the flour, sugar, baking powder, salt and spices.  Break up the almond paste into approximately ½ inch pieces and add it to the flour. Using the paddle attachment, combine the almond paste and flour until the almond paste is reduced to very small pieces (smaller than pea size). Transfer the mixture to another bowl and set aside.

Cream the butter until smooth, but not light. Add the eggs one at a time and mix until combined, scraping regularly. Add the rum and mix until combine. (The butter will not combine completely with the eggs and will remain in visible pieces. This is okay.)

Add the flour mixture to the wet ingredients and mix until partially combined. Add the almonds, candied fruit and ginger. Mix until just combined, scraping well.

Prepare a baking sheet 16×12 inches with parchment paper.

Divide the dough into 2 even portions. Roll each portion into a log 14 inches long. (Using slightly damp hands makes this an easy task.) Place each log on the baking sheet allowing plenty of room for spread from each log. Again with damp hands, gently flatten the top of each log to about ¾ inch thick.

Preheat the oven to 300°F.

Chill the logs in the refrigerator for 30 minutes. Bake the logs for 25 minutes or until golden brown and somewhat firm when pressed. Cool the logs completely before moving on to the next step. Letting the logs sit overnight at room temperature is the best way to get a nice cut the next day. (The baked logs can be wrapped and frozen for up to one month.)

Lower the oven temperature to 250°F.

Cut the cooled logs into ½ slices. Lay the cut biscotti on a baking sheet cut side up. Bake the biscotti for approximately 15 minutes or until they feel dry on top. Turn each of the biscotti over and bake them again for approximately 15 minutes, again until they feel dry. The biscotti should dry, but have little to no browning. Let them cool completely before storing them in an airtight container at room temperature.  They will last for several weeks.

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Brandied Apples with Ginger Streusel

A simple apple tart. A crisp ginger crust. A perfect dessert for the holidays and throughout the winter. Think of fruit desserts as mostly about the fruit and just a little about the seasoning (here cinnamon and ginger). The brandy adds flavor but also mellows the tartness of the apples just a bit. Use the gorgeous apples at the farmer’s markets this year. Even grocery stores are carrying new and different apple varieties.

My favorite apples for this tart are Northern Spy and Newton Pippin, often found at your local farmer’s market.  You can mix and match a combination of tart-sweet and sweet apples which provide a nice balance of textures and flavors. Everyone has their favorite pie apple. If you’re using just one apple, use a tart-sweet apple such as Fuji or Braeburn.  Combine a very tart apple like Granny Smith, which tends to hold its shape, with a sweet apple such as Golden Delicious or Pink Lady which will break down more and give your pie nice texture. If you frequent the farmer’s markets, ask around for the farmers’ favorite pie apples.  You will find a large variety of apples and lots and lots of helpful information. Farmer’s love to talk about their apples!

In this presentation, I made it into a tart with a simple pate sucree crust. The streusel top is baked separately and then sprinkled over the top before serving. Prepare the apples a few hours ahead of time and let the flavors meld while they cool. Assemble the tart about an hour before serving to prevent the crust from becoming soft. For a simpler preparation, forego the tart shell and serve the apples warm in pretty dishes with the streusel sprinkled over the top and maybe a bit of soft whipped cream.

Brandied Apples with Currants and Ginger Streusel

Yield:  4 servings

Ginger Streusel
¼ cup all-purpose flour or whole wheat flour
2 tablespoons packed brown sugar
¼ teaspoon kosher salt
¼ teaspoon ground ginger
2 tablespoons rolled oats
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, cold
2 teaspoons chopped candied ginger

Apple Filling
2-3 apples, peeled and sliced
1 teaspoon apple cider vinegar
3 tablespoons granulated sugar (more for tart apples)
1/8 teaspoon cinnamon
¼ teaspoon ground ginger
1 pinch kosher salt
2 tablespoons currants
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 tablespoons brandy

Preheat the oven to 375°F.

For the Streusel:  Combine the flour, brown sugar, salt, ground ginger, oats and candied ginger in a medium bowl.  Cut the butter into ½ inch pieces.  With your hands or a pastry blender, work the butter into the dry mixture until the streusel starts to hold together. The butter should be mostly combined with the dry ingredients and the streusel should be neither dry nor sticky, but will hold together with a gentle squeeze.

Spread the streusel on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Bake the streusel for 15-20 minutes or until browned and crisp. Cool the streusel to room temperature. Store in an airtight container.

For the apples:  Combine the sliced apples and vinegar in a large bowl.  Toss with the sugar, spices and currants to combine.  Heat a large skillet on medium-high heat. Add the butter and cook it until it is browned and smells nutty.  Add the apples and cook them until they soften, but are not falling apart. Add the brandy to the apples and toss to combine.

Serve the apples warm or at room temperature sprinkled with the streusel. Top with vanilla ice cream or whipped cream.

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